Moving Rubjerg Knude Fyr Lighthouse

When Rubjerg Knude was first lit in 1900 it was about 200 meters from the North Sea. Due to coastal erosion, now it’s about six. So Denmark decided to move it, and earlier today, RTÉ was there to stream the event live.

I can’t say whether the Irish public broadcaster always intended to stream for an hour and then turn off the live stream, or finally just gave up and turned the thing off, but a spoiler alert, nothing much happens:

Out in the Cold: Another Audiobook Excerpt

Torshavn, capital of the Faroe Islands

Here is another excerpt from my latest book, Out in the Cold: Adventures in Svalbard, the Faroe Islands, Iceland, Greenland and Canada. The audiobook version may be live on Audible.com as early as next week. This clip, like the previous, is from Part 2, The Faroe Islands, a small, gorgeous archipelago in the North Atlantic Ocean. It comes early in the section, and sets the stage for the Faroes’ discovery, with a little history of the islands’ colonial master, Denmark.

It’s me speaking; I narrate the book. I hope you enjoy it.

 

Until the audiobook version is available, you can buy the written version of Out in the Cold on Amazon, here, or you can get the audiobook versions of either of my other books here:

Common Sense and Whiskey on Audible.
Visiting Chernobyl on Audible.

And here are several more written excerpts from Out in the Cold.

Inuit Resourcefulness

Outstanding trip to Tasiilaq, in east Greenland. On a walk through town the other day, these polar bear skins:

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Nothing is wasted around here and all hunting is strictly sustainable.

Consider the seal: As food, seal meat is protein rich for tough Arctic winters, and you’ll find it served dried, stir fried, roasted, as steaks or in suaasat, a seal soup with rice and onions. Beyond food for the family, seal parts feed the sled dogs, who are every bit as essential to an Inuit family as your car. Before electricity, seal blubber lit the Inuit night, loaded into a carved soapstone, using cotton grass, moss or even dried rabbit dung as a wick. On winter hunting trips seal blubber is still used this way. The skin makes insulating clothes. Bones are carved into tools and tourist trinkets here, at Workshop Stunk:

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My new friend Hans Ulriksen carved a tupilaq for me, a traditional avenging totem, from seal bone.

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Here, preparing a narwhal tusk.

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Three More Quick Photos from Greenland

Good day here today, they say the best weather day of the year where, at this hour, just shy of midnight, the kids are playing football still. Clouds rolled back at midday and the sun on the hills is tremendous. But … those photos are still to come. Tomorrow is a travel day, on to Iceland and then Finland, so those will have to wait. Here we have three from yesterday:

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A Few Faroes Photos

Sorry to leave the picture perfect Faroe Islands at midday today. We’ll sail on the MS Norröna for Seyðisfjørður, Iceland. For now, here are a few photos from around the Faroe Islands.

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First Faroes Photo

Excited to be in the Faroe Islands. We headed straight from the airport to get this photo of the village of Gasadalur. Now we’re in the capital, Torshavn, where it is alternating sun and sleet.

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Looking forward to a couple of days of taking pictures here.